Trying out Kentmere Pan 400 35mm film to keep costs down, made by Ilford, same as HP5+, I don’t think I’ll ever notice a differense :) I tested the film in two diffrent cameras - ofcause cameras I have no experiance with! In the Pentax this is the first roll after a service and the first roll ever i shot with the Minolta. This is not the right way to do a test, but it seems it’s my way! ...
More manual on the EOS 300 So I’m trying to learn to meter more intuitively and how to use the manual controls of my cameras better. To that end I’ve started shooting more in manual mode and trying out different metering systems/schools/thoughts. Getting more clouds I have tried to meter for the sky and get better definition in the clouds. Better shadows I tried a bit to meter for the shadows, “Expose for the shadows” - will put more effort in to this in the future. ...
Tried my hand at shooting with Red Filter, that is Ilfords HP5 plus in Lomography Lomo MC-A shot at ISO 1600 with a Tamron Red Filter. I set the camera to overexpose by two stops ( I know that counters the ISO setting but that is how I choose to do it 🤓). The exposures came out a bit over exposed so next time I’ll try ISO 1600 and overexpose just one stop. ...
Another roll of Ilford HP5 Plus pushed to ISO 1600 in my Lomography Lomo MC-A developed with Adox Rodinal at 1/25 concentration for 12 minutes.
Did my first try of pushing film, pushing Ilford HP5 plus to ISO 1600 - from box-speed of 400. Hoping for some of those punchy results I see online and maybe a bit better handling of the Swedish dark winter lighting. I developed the film in Adox Rodinal 1/25 for 12 minutes. I usually use 1/50 concentration for iso400 but I wanted the results quickly so I went for 1/25! 😀 The results are quite good, maybe I’ll try to add a minute next time to get it even crunchier. ...
I scan all my negatives myself using my digital camera. The cheap LED I started out using a small led light, JJC FDA-LED1, to back-light my negatives and take photos using my Canon EOS R50 with a RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS STM. The LED-light thing was doing it’s job but I have replaced it. I want something a bit easier to work with and I want to be able to “scan” overlapping frames, panoramas and also get the sprocket-holes – all of which is not possible with the holder included in the JCC light. I have settled for Lomography DigitaLIZA+ hoping that will do well if I venture out trying 120 and 110 film on day. ...
This roll is scanned brighter than my previous rolls (6 of 10 brightness on the JCC led). This time I used a lot of the auto-features in darktable/negadoctor on the first frame and then used that preset on all of the negatives. ...
I use Darktable for all my RAW-editing, it, as well as photography as a whole, is a new thing – thus I’m not very good, but learning. The roll here is a Kodak Tri-X 400 shot with the Lomo MC-A. The images in the first gallery are edited the way I thought it was supposed to be done. The photos in the secound gallery are edited with different settings from the first – a new preset I made for negadoctor. I have no idea why the cat picture is not as blue as the others. ...
Got bitten by the film-bug and went and bought myself a camera. Lomography has recently released a new film camera for 35mm that looks like (and acts like) a point & shot – but it comes with a lot of settings not normally found on such. The Lomo MC-A is very expensive – but its also a newly developed and released film camera, that is worth supporting and hopefully not something I’ll regret. (= ...
This was the first roll of Black and White film i ever developed myself, using the Ilford simplicity chemistry that came with the Paterson tank/kit. Its shot with a Canon Prima AF-7 – A point and shot camera with little to no settings. The images came out perfectly and a quick edit in Darktable using Negadoctor left these results. ...