<rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"><channel><title>35mm on nozense</title><link>https://nozen.se/tags/35mm/</link><description>Recent content in 35mm on nozense</description><generator>Hugo</generator><language>en-us</language><lastBuildDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2026 09:31:51 +0200</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://nozen.se/tags/35mm/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>Trying more manual and bought a new camera</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/trying-more-manual-and-bought-a-new-camera/</link><pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2026 09:31:51 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/trying-more-manual-and-bought-a-new-camera/</guid><description>More manual on the EOS 300 So I&amp;#39;m trying to learn to meter more intuitively and how to use the manual controls of my cameras better. To that end I&amp;#39;ve started shooting more in manual mode and trying out different metering systems/schools/thoughts. Getting more clouds I have tried to meter for the sky …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>cameras</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/trying-more-manual-and-bought-a-new-camera/images/more/IMG_5812_inverted.jpg" length="555119" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>Red Filter</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/red-filter/</link><pubDate>Wed, 01 Apr 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/red-filter/</guid><description>Tried my hand at shooting with Red Filter, that is Ilfords HP5 plus in Lomography Lomo MC-A shot at ISO 1600 with a Tamron Red Filter. I set the camera to overexpose by two stops ( I know that counters the ISO setting but that is how I choose to do it 🤓). The exposures came out a bit over exposed so …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/red-filter/images/IMG_5393.jpg" length="967742" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>More pushing HP5+</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/more-pushing-hp5/</link><pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/more-pushing-hp5/</guid><description>Another roll of Ilford HP5 Plus pushed to ISO 1600 in my Lomography Lomo MC-A developed with Adox Rodinal at 1/25 concentration for 12 minutes.</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/more-pushing-hp5/images/IMG_5362.jpg" length="1047131" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>Pushing Ilford HP5+ and Rodinal</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/pushing-ilford-hp5-and-rodinal/</link><pubDate>Mon, 23 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/pushing-ilford-hp5-and-rodinal/</guid><description>Did my first try of pushing film, pushing Ilford HP5 plus to ISO 1600 - from box-speed of 400. Hoping for some of those punchy results I see online and maybe a bit better handling of the Swedish dark winter lighting. I developed the film in Adox Rodinal 1/25 for 12 minutes. I usually use 1/50 …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>development</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/pushing-ilford-hp5-and-rodinal/images/IMG_5311.jpg" length="801597" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>Scanning Negatives</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/scanning-negatives/</link><pubDate>Tue, 10 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/scanning-negatives/</guid><description>I scan all my negatives myself using my digital camera. The cheap LED I started out using a small led light, JJC FDA-LED1, to back-light my negatives and take photos using my Canon EOS R50 with a RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS STM. The LED-light thing was doing it’s job but I have replaced it. I want …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>scanning</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/scanning-negatives/images/digitaliza4.png" length="918453" type="image/png"/></item><item><title>Another roll through negadoctor</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/another-roll-through-negadoctor/</link><pubDate>Thu, 05 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/another-roll-through-negadoctor/</guid><description>This roll is scanned brighter than my previous rolls (6 of 10 brightness on the JCC led). This time I used a lot of the auto-features in darktable/negadoctor on the first frame and then used that preset on all of the negatives. This approach seems to do quite well, not really the result I am looking …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>darktable</category><category>scanning</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/another-roll-through-negadoctor/images/LMCA-3_2.jpg" length="1018946" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>Darktable Negadoctor and a roll</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/darktable-negadoctor-and-a-roll/</link><pubDate>Tue, 03 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/darktable-negadoctor-and-a-roll/</guid><description>I use Darktable for all my RAW-editing, it, as well as photography as a whole, is a new thing – thus I’m not very good, but learning. The roll here is a Kodak Tri-X 400 shot with the Lomo MC-A. The images in the first gallery are edited the way I thought it was supposed to be done. The photos in the …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>darktable</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/darktable-negadoctor-and-a-roll/images/1/LMCA-2_2-1.jpg" length="548867" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>Lomography Lomo MC-A</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/lomo-mc-a/</link><pubDate>Mon, 02 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/lomo-mc-a/</guid><description>Got bitten by the film-bug and went and bought myself a camera. [Lomography](https://www.lomography.com/) has recently released a new film camera for 35mm that looks like (and acts like) a point &amp;amp; shot – but it comes with a lot of settings not normally found on such. The Lomo MC-A is very expensive …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><category>lomography</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/lomo-mc-a/images/LMCA-1_3.jpg" length="663234" type="image/jpeg"/></item><item><title>First ever black and white</title><link>https://nozen.se/posts/first-ever-black-and-white/</link><pubDate>Sun, 01 Feb 2026 13:45:55 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://nozen.se/posts/first-ever-black-and-white/</guid><description>This was the first roll of Black and White film i ever developed myself, using the Ilford simplicity chemistry that came with the Paterson tank/kit. Its shot with a Canon Prima AF-7 – A point and shot camera with little to no settings. The images came out perfectly and a quick edit in Darktable …</description><category>black-and-white</category><category>photos</category><category>35mm</category><enclosure url="https://nozen.se/posts/first-ever-black-and-white/images/caf7-2_1.jpg" length="758233" type="image/jpeg"/></item></channel></rss>