nozense

More manual on the EOS 300 So I’m trying to learn to meter more intuitively and how to use the manual controls of my cameras better. To that end I’ve started shooting more in manual mode and trying out different metering systems/schools/thoughts. Getting more clouds I have tried to meter for the sky and get better definition in the clouds. Better shadows I tried a bit to meter for the shadows, “Expose for the shadows” - will put more effort in to this in the future. ...

So, Darktable and all that is fine if you want great results in your digital scans - my aim is the darkroom. To that end I’ve decided to have a scaled back routine for my digital scans to stay close to what can easily be done in the darkroom. I also need the process to be quick and simple - I already shoot a lot of rolls and want to increase this to get more experience with the camera and how to expose. ...

Revised, better, simpler, faster way to work with Black & White negatives in Darktable During a couple of development / scanning cycles I’ve been less than satisfied with the result from my scans - so I started to revise my Darktable methods. With the help of an AI-agent, yes I use AI when it feels relevant, I found a procedure that seems to render a lot better results than my previous. ...

Time to move again! from Publii I have nothing against Publii, the reason to move has more to do with the workflow, i felt very restricted being forced to work in a desktop app. to Hugo Hugo is a fast framework to build static sites, it’s been around forever and seems stable. Let’s see how we get along.

Tried my hand at shooting with Red Filter, that is Ilfords HP5 plus in Lomography Lomo MC-A shot at ISO 1600 with a Tamron Red Filter. I set the camera to overexpose by two stops ( I know that counters the ISO setting but that is how I choose to do it 🤓). The exposures came out a bit over exposed so next time I’ll try ISO 1600 and overexpose just one stop. ...

Another roll of Ilford HP5 Plus pushed to ISO 1600 in my Lomography Lomo MC-A developed with Adox Rodinal at 1/25 concentration for 12 minutes.

Did my first try of pushing film, pushing Ilford HP5 plus to ISO 1600 - from box-speed of 400. Hoping for some of those punchy results I see online and maybe a bit better handling of the Swedish dark winter lighting. I developed the film in Adox Rodinal 1/25 for 12 minutes. I usually use 1/50 concentration for iso400 but I wanted the results quickly so I went for 1/25! 😀 The results are quite good, maybe I’ll try to add a minute next time to get it even crunchier. ...

IMPORTANT This method is not what I use now, check out Better negatives in Darktable Darktable can be quite confusing but it is open source and free so I’ll stick with it! Here’s my process for converting scanned 35mm black and white negatives using negadoctor - this is very bare bones and not extensively tested, but it is something. What you need: A photo of your light source without any negative in front A photo with a chunk of unexposed negative A photo or part of photo that is exposed ...

I scan all my negatives myself using my digital camera. The cheap LED I started out using a small led light, JJC FDA-LED1, to back-light my negatives and take photos using my Canon EOS R50 with a RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS STM. The LED-light thing was doing it’s job but I have replaced it. I want something a bit easier to work with and I want to be able to “scan” overlapping frames, panoramas and also get the sprocket-holes – all of which is not possible with the holder included in the JCC light. I have settled for Lomography DigitaLIZA+ hoping that will do well if I venture out trying 120 and 110 film on day. ...

This roll is scanned brighter than my previous rolls (6 of 10 brightness on the JCC led). This time I used a lot of the auto-features in darktable/negadoctor on the first frame and then used that preset on all of the negatives. ...